Once hailed as a health essential, cow's milk consumption has declined sharply in recent years, primarily due to health concerns. But is this shift justified?
In his book From Land to Plate, a comprehensive look at the food industry, renowned French agronomist and former AgroParisTech researcher Marc Dufumier addresses key questions about dairy. Drawing on data from the National Union of Drinking Milk (Syndilait), he notes a drop from 61 liters per person annually in 2003 to 49 liters in 2017.
Milk was once praised for its calcium and phosphorus. Today, lactose intolerance—affecting a minority—is often cited, though many can still enjoy lactose-free options like cheese and yogurt. Dufumier highlights a more significant issue: milk proteins that promote blood acidification. To restore balance, the body leaches calcium and alkaline minerals from bones, potentially leading to decalcification—not from calcium deficiency, but excess acidity. This risk is heightened for pregnant or breastfeeding women and the elderly.
Relying solely on milk heightens these risks. Dufumier recommends diversifying protein sources (fruits, bread, etc.) to counter acidity. Effective calcium absorption also requires magnesium—scarce in milk but abundant in chocolate. He advocates calcium-rich alternatives: wild or organic fish, spinach, broccoli, walnuts, hazelnuts, almonds, soy, soy milk, tofu, dried beans, oranges, and apricots.
Dufumier doesn't vilify cow's milk but urges moderation. Pairing it with a varied diet—and considering nutrient-dense options like goat or sheep milk—promotes better health.
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